Melasma on Indian Skin: Causes & What Actually Works

A founder note from Kusuma, who has dealt with melasma on Indian skin and built Lucènci to take this seriously.

If you've Googled "melasma cream" recently, you've probably been hit with a wall of products promising to "remove" your patches in 7 days. I'm going to be honest with you: melasma doesn't work like that. It's a stubborn, chronic condition, and the products that do work do so over weeks and months — not overnight.

This guide pulls together what's actually backed by peer-reviewed research, with a specific lens on Indian skin (Fitzpatrick types IV–V), where melasma is far more common and far more visible. I'll tell you what causes it, what actually fades it, what to avoid, and how the Lucènci serum fits into a real routine.

What is melasma?

Melasma is a chronic, acquired hyperpigmentation disorder that shows up as symmetric brown or grey-brown patches — usually on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, chin, and bridge of the nose.¹ It's not dangerous, but it is deeply visible, and on Indian skin it's particularly common because we have more active melanocytes (the pigment-producing cells in our skin) than lighter skin types.²

In India, melasma affects up to 1 in 3 adult women at some point, with prevalence rising sharply after the late 20s and during/after pregnancy. It's so common that the Indian Dermatology Society has published its own evidence-based treatment guidelines specifically because data from Caucasian patients doesn't translate cleanly to our skin.³

What causes melasma?

Melasma isn't caused by one thing. It's a tangle of triggers, and the more of them you have, the worse it gets.

1. UV radiation (the biggest one)

Sun exposure is the single most important driver. UV light directly stimulates melanocytes to produce more pigment, and in melasma-prone skin those cells are hyper-responsive. Even small amounts of unprotected sun — the walk to the auto, a 10-minute terrace coffee — add up.^1,4

2. Visible light and heat

This is the part most people don't know: in darker skin tones, visible light (the kind that comes through windows and from your phone screen) and infrared heat can trigger melasma too. This is why mineral sunscreens with iron oxides matter more for Indian skin than for lighter skin types — iron oxides block visible light, plain zinc/titanium often don't.⁴

3. Hormones

Pregnancy melasma ("chloasma" or "the mask of pregnancy") is real and affects up to 50% of pregnant Indian women. Combined oral contraceptive pills can trigger or worsen it. Thyroid imbalances and PCOS are also linked.¹

4. Genetics

If your mother or sister has melasma, your odds go up significantly. Indian, Hispanic, and East Asian populations have higher genetic susceptibility.²

5. Inflammation and irritation

Aggressive scrubs, harsh peels, over-exfoliation, and even some hair-removal methods (waxing, threading on inflamed skin) can leave behind post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation that looks like melasma or piles on top of existing melasma. The fix isn't more aggressive treatment — it's less.

Types of melasma (this changes what works)

Dermatologists classify melasma by how deep the pigment sits in your skin. This matters because deeper pigment is harder to treat with topicals.

• Epidermal melasma — pigment in the upper layer of skin. Responds best to topical treatments. Looks light to medium brown with well-defined edges.
• Dermal melasma — pigment in the deeper layer. Slower to fade, often grey-blue tinted, blurry edges. Topicals help less.
• Mixed melasma — the most common type on Indian skin. Combination of both.³

If your patches look more grey than brown, or they've been around for years and don't fade with sun protection alone, you likely have dermal or mixed melasma — and you should see a dermatologist for in-clinic options (peels, lasers) alongside your topical routine.

What actually works: evidence-based treatments

Here's the prioritized list, ranked by the strength of evidence specifically in Indian and South Asian patients.

1. Broad-spectrum sunscreen — non-negotiable

Every single melasma treatment study includes sunscreen as the foundation. Without daily SPF 30+ (ideally SPF 50 with iron oxides for visible-light protection), nothing else works. Reapply every 2–3 hours when you're outdoors.⁴

2. Topical tranexamic acid (2–5%)

Strong evidence in Indian and South Asian patients. Reduces melasma severity meaningfully over 8–12 weeks, with a much better side-effect profile than hydroquinone. We covered this in detail in our Tranexamic Acid guide.

3. Azelaic acid (10–20%) — or, in PAD form, even more elegantly

Azelaic acid is a tyrosinase inhibitor with anti-inflammatory and gentle keratolytic properties. It's recommended in the Indian expert consensus for melasma management because it's safe, effective, and pregnancy-friendly.⁵ The catch with traditional azelaic acid: it's gritty, irritating at higher concentrations, and famously hard to formulate. That's why we use Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (PAD) in Lucènci — it's the water-soluble, smoothly-absorbing form of azelaic acid that delivers the same benefits without the irritation. (Read our deep-dive on azelaic acid for the full mechanism.)

4. Niacinamide (4–5%)

Niacinamide blocks pigment transfer from melanocytes to skin cells. Less powerful than tranexamic acid or azelaic acid alone, but a fantastic partner ingredient — which is why our serum stacks 4% niacinamide on top of 8% PAD.³

5. Hydroquinone (prescription only in India for melasma)

The traditional gold standard, usually at 2–4%, often combined with retinoid + steroid (the "Kligman trio"). It works, but with caveats: cycling is required (typically 8–12 weeks on, then break), and chronic misuse can cause exogenous ochronosis — a permanent blue-black pigmentation that's much worse than the original melasma.⁶ This is why hydroquinone should only be used under a dermatologist's supervision, never as a long-term OTC product.

6. Oral tranexamic acid (prescription, dermatologist-supervised)

For moderate-to-severe or treatment-resistant melasma, oral TXA at 250 mg twice daily has solid evidence in Indian patients — but it carries small risks (mainly menstrual changes and, very rarely, thromboembolic events). It is not appropriate for women with clotting disorders, on combined oral contraceptives, smokers, or with a personal/family history of clots. Indian expert consensus specifically warns against self-prescription.⁷

7. Procedures (chemical peels, Q-switched Nd:YAG lasers)

Best reserved for dermal/mixed melasma that hasn't responded to 3+ months of topicals. Q-switched Nd:YAG 1064 nm is the most validated laser for Indian skin because longer wavelengths penetrate deeper without burning the surface, which would cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (a real risk on darker skin tones).³

What to AVOID (this matters as much as what to use)

• "Fairness creams" from the kirana store. Many contain unregulated mercury, steroids, or hydroquinone overdoses. They can cause exogenous ochronosis, skin atrophy, telangiectasias, and steroid-induced rosacea — all of which are permanent and worse than melasma.⁶
• DIY lemon, turmeric, or baking soda packs. These cause irritation that triggers more post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, especially on Indian skin.
• Aggressive at-home peels and scrubs. Anything that leaves your skin red or stinging is making melasma worse, not better.
• Skipping sunscreen on cloudy days or indoors near windows. Visible light penetrates clouds and glass.
• Switching products every 2 weeks because "it's not working." Melasma takes 8–12 weeks minimum to respond.

The Lucènci approach for melasma-prone Indian skin

When I was formulating Lucènci, I built it around what the science actually says works for our skin:

• 8% Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (PAD) — the elegant, water-soluble form of azelaic acid that gives you tyrosinase-inhibiting and anti-inflammatory benefits without the grit and sting.
• 4% niacinamide — blocks pigment transfer, supports the skin barrier, and partners beautifully with PAD.
• 16-form hyaluronic acid complex — because melasma routines often involve dryness-inducing actives elsewhere (retinoids, peels), and a healthy moisture barrier means less inflammation, which means less melasma flare-up.

That's it. No fragrance, no essential oils, no skin-bleaching shortcuts. Used once or twice daily on clean skin, layered under a broad-spectrum SPF 50 with iron oxides, it's the foundation of a real melasma routine.

A realistic timeline for melasma

FAQ

Can melasma be permanently cured?

Honestly, no — it's a chronic, relapsing condition. But it can be managed long-term to the point where it's barely visible. The key is consistent sun protection forever, not just during a "treatment phase".

Does pregnancy melasma go away on its own?

Sometimes, partially. Many women see it fade in the months after delivery, but for a significant portion it persists and needs active treatment. Don't use prescription depigmenting agents (hydroquinone, oral TXA, retinoids) during pregnancy or breastfeeding — azelaic acid (PAD) and niacinamide are the safer pregnancy-friendly options.⁵

Is melasma the same as hyperpigmentation?

Melasma is one type of hyperpigmentation. The others include post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH, from acne or injury), sun spots / lentigines, and freckles. Treatment overlaps but isn't identical.

Can men get melasma?

Yes — about 10% of melasma patients in Indian studies are men. The triggers are similar (sun, genetics) minus the hormonal component.

Should I use vitamin C if I have melasma?

Vitamin C can help as an adjunct, but it's not as effective as TXA or azelaic acid for pigmentation. If your skin tolerates it, layer a stable vitamin C serum in the morning under sunscreen, and your PAD/niacinamide serum at night.

The bottom line

Melasma is stubborn but treatable. The science says: ironclad daily sun protection, plus a topical with strong evidence for Indian skin (tranexamic acid, azelaic acid in PAD form, or niacinamide — ideally all three), plus patience for 8–12 weeks. Skip the kirana fairness creams, skip the lemon DIYs, and don't change products every fortnight.

If you want a starting point: our 3-in-1 PAD + niacinamide + HA serum was formulated exactly for this. Used consistently with a good mineral SPF, it's the foundation of a melasma routine that actually works for our skin.

If your melasma is established — deep dermal patches, years-old, or unresponsive to gentler routines — we have a clinical-strength companion launching soon: Reform Brightening Cream. 0.3% 4-n-Butyl Resorcinol (one of the most potent tyrosinase inhibitors studied), stacked with niacinamide, glycolic acid, alpha-arbutin, and Melazero. PM-only, clinical-strength. Get on the waitlist.

— Kusuma
Founder, Lucènci

References

1. Sarkar R, Arora P, Garg VK, Sonthalia S, Gokhale N. Melasma update. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2014 Oct;5(4):426-435. PubMed: 25396123
2. Nouveau S, Agrawal D, Kohli M, Bernerd F, Misra N, Nayak CS. Skin Hyperpigmentation in Indian Population: Insights and Best Practice. Indian J Dermatol. 2016 Sep-Oct;61(5):487-495. PubMed: 27688436
3. Sarma N, Chakraborty S, Poojary SA, et al. Evidence-based Review, Grade of Recommendation, and Suggested Treatment Recommendations for Melasma. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2017 Nov-Dec;8(6):406-442. PubMed: 29204385
4. Fatima S, Braunberger T, Mohammad TF, Kohli I, Hamzavi IH. The Role of Sunscreen in Melasma and Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation. Indian J Dermatol. 2020 Jan-Feb;65(1):5-10. PubMed: 32029932
5. Sarkar R, Gokhale N, Godse K, et al. Medical Management of Melasma: A Review with Consensus Recommendations by Indian Pigmentary Expert Group. Indian J Dermatol. 2017 Nov-Dec;62(6):558-577. PubMed: 29263529
6. Bhattar PA, Zawar VP, Godse KV, Patil SP, Nadkarni NJ, Gautam MM. Exogenous Ochronosis. Indian J Dermatol. 2015 Nov-Dec;60(6):537-543. PubMed: 26677264
7. Godse K, Sarkar R, Mysore V, et al. Oral Tranexamic Acid for the Treatment of Melasma: Evidence and Experience-Based Consensus Statement from Indian Experts. Indian J Dermatol. 2023 Mar-Apr;68(2):178-185. PubMed: 37275826

This article is educational and not medical advice. Melasma can have multiple underlying causes, and severe or persistent cases should be evaluated by a qualified dermatologist. Do not start prescription medications (oral tranexamic acid, hydroquinone, retinoids) without medical supervision.